If you have an overlock machine with the coverstitch function, you've probably encountered it without quite knowing what to do with it.
It's one of those stitches that's hard to explain in words; you need to see it, touch it, and understand when and why to use it.
Today, I'll tell you about it with some practical examples that will clear things up once and for all.
What is a coverstitch?
The coverstitch is a stitch that joins two or more layers of fabric with a flat, elastic, and visually clean seam on both sides. On the top, you'll see two or three parallel rows of stitches, like those found on athletic wear or T-shirt seams. On the reverse, a chain stitch ensures elasticity and strength.
It's the stitch used by sportswear manufacturers, jersey producers, and anyone working with elastic fabrics that need to remain elastic even after stitching.
If you've ever seen a polo shirt or legging hem that doesn't break or sag, it was almost certainly made with a coverstitch.
The difference from a regular overlock machine
This is where many people get confused. An overlock machine cuts and trims edges, performs side seams, and holds pieces together. A coverstitch does something different: it finishes and joins with a flat, visible seam, without cutting anything. These are two complementary operations, not alternatives.
Some machines do both; they are called overlockers with integrated coverstitch, or "5-in-1" machines. Others are dedicated exclusively to the coverstitch. The choice depends on how often you use both functions and how much space you have in your workshop.
Explore our selection of overlock machines for home and family use.
When to use a coverstitch
There are situations where a coverstitch is the right choice, and situations where it's not needed.
It is used for:
- Hems of T-shirts, sweatshirts, leggings, and athletic wear—fabrics that stretch and need to maintain elasticity even after a hundred washes
- Elastic bands, necklines, and cuffs
- Decorative raised inserts
- Any seam that needs to be flat, clean, and professional on both sides
It is not used for:
- Structural or side seams of garments
- Stiff fabrics like heavy denim or linen
- Processes where cutting and trimming the edge is required; in those cases, a traditional overlock machine is the right choice
How many needles and how many threads
The coverstitch is made with 2 or 3 needles and one or two lower looper threads.
- 2 needles: two parallel rows of stitches • the most common, used for simple hems and finishes
- 3 needles: three rows of stitches, more robust • preferred in professional settings for technical fabrics or quality athletic wear
Entry-level machines often only do 2-needle coverstitching. More comprehensive machines offer both options. If you primarily work on athletic or technical apparel, the 3-needle option will give you better results.
Adjustments that make a difference
Thread tension is the most critical adjustment: too much tension and the stitch tightens the fabric, loses elasticity, and risks breaking. Too little, and the stitch is loose, frays, and doesn't hold. Each fabric requires its own tension, which can only be found with some testing.
The differential feed, if present, is essential for elastic fabrics: it prevents jersey from stretching during stitching and ensures a uniform hem without puckering. On a machine without a differential feed, working with jersey is much more difficult, and the results are often disappointing.
Is a dedicated machine worth it?
It depends on how much you work with elastic fabrics.
If you primarily make garments from rigid fabric—an occasional jacket, some trousers—probably not. The coverstitch will be rarely needed and doesn't justify the investment in a dedicated machine.
However, if you frequently work with jersey, athletic wear, or perform repairs and alterations on elastic garments, then yes, it makes sense. A good coverstitch machine saves you time, improves the final result, and opens up creative possibilities that you don't have with a regular sewing machine.
Discover the coverstitch machines in our catalog.
Gianluca's advice
If you already have an overlock machine and frequently work with elastic fabrics, the natural next step is a coverstitch machine.
If you are still considering your first purchase, consider a 5-in-1 machine that does both: it's a practical solution, takes up less space, and covers most needs for those who work with both rigid and elastic fabrics.
As always, the best thing to do is to see the machines in person and try them out on your fabric. Stop by the shop in Turin, I'll show you how it works live, and we can assess together if it's the right machine for what you do.
GDG Del Giudice — Via Bologna 252, Turin
